FIVE BASIC PRODUCTS FOR NATURAL HAIR

August 11, 2015, 6:35 am

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Hi people, what's been on?

So I know I try out a lot of products, review my favorite ones and it might overwhelm a new natural looking for advice and what products to buy to start her journey.

In today's post, I'm going to tell you that for your personal kits....

YOU REALLY JUST NEED 5 TYPES OF PRODUCTS!!!

Just 5, really and you're fine.....(unless you have problem hair, then please meet up with someone knowledgeable about hair).

I call them the BIG FIVE and they are:

1. Cleansers
2. Conditioners
3. Leave In Conditioners
4. Stylers
5. Oil

Shikena!

What type you use is all up to you, the products available in your location, your hairtype and your pocket.

So let me explain what each one does and what to look out for.

1. Cleansers.
These are what you use to wash out all the nasties (dirt, dust, sweat, twigs, leaves etc) out of your hair and the gentler it is i.e. the less it dries out your hair the better.
Basically you need a shampoo without
-sodium lauryl sulphates,
-sodium laureth sulfate,
-ammonium lauryl sulfate and
-ammonium laureth sulfate.
I listed them from the most stripping to the least. These ingredients were good for the days when most of our styling products contained petrolatum, parafinnum liquidum but if you want to start up, just avoid them.

There are two basic types of cleansers you need depending on your follow up i.e. styling products and leave ins.
*Sulfate free shampoos (if you use heavy stylers)
*Cleansing conditioner aka cowash cleansers. (if you use lighter stylers and if you like washing your hair often)

Others includes:

pH-balanced shampoo - balanced to the pH of the hair and skin

conditioning shampoo (moisturizing shampoo) - designed to make the hair appear smooth and shiny and to make hair manageable

medicated shampoo -  contains special ingredients to reduce dandruff or other scalp conditions

clarifying shampoo - contains an active chelating agent that binds to metals and removes them from the hair, as well as an equalizing agent.

balancing shampoo - washes away excess oiliness, while preventing the hair from drying out.

dry shampoo (powder shampoo) - cleanses hair without the use of soap and water

color-enhancing shampoo - used to brighten, to add a slight color, and to eliminate unwanted color tones.

As a newbie, start with a moisturising sulfate free shampoo, then as your regimen develops and you understand your hair better, you can switch to other types.

2. Conditioners
These are applied to the hair to deposit moisturisers and/or proteins to help restore the hair's strength, give hair body, and protect hair against possible breakage.

You need in general
*Rinse out conditioners - these are useful for detangling and depending on the ingredients, you can possibly leave a little of it in.

Other types of conditioners includes:

- Treatment or repair conditioner which help restore protein and moisture and sometimes require longer processing time or the application of heat.

- Protein conditioner designed to penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft from within to temporarily reconstruct the hair.

As a newbie, you just need a rinse out conditioner. You can then purchase others depending on the needs of your hair.

3. Leave In Conditioners
Leave-in conditioners as the name implies are applied to the hair and not rinsed out.
 They contain humectants e.g. glycerine which are substances that absorb moisture or promote the retention of moisture.

Popular question is what is the difference between a leave in conditioner and a moisturiser?
It all depends on formulations.
Basically for the sake of simplifying, moisturisers are usually heavier and more oily than leave in conditioners. Truth is that it is used interchangeably with leave in conditioners to describe conditioners you don't need to rinse out and mositurisers...well for moisturising your hair.
I prefer lighter formulas for daily use as they generally contain more water and don't easily build up for those that can be heavy handed.
But during the dry season it's best to switch to heavier formulas (moisturisers). Both types simply keep your hair hydrated on a daily basis.

Leave In Conditioners are to be used daily so for this purpose try to avoid the ones with petrolatum, mineral oils, silicones ending in -cones and -xanes especially if it's among the first 5 ingredients.
You will need to wash them out with a shampoo containing sulfates which over time dries out your hair.



4. Stylers
Stylers help keep your favorite styles in place. These include

- stylers to help your twistouts stay defined

-stylers for smoother edges,

-stylers to define your curls in a wash and go

- stylers to help protect your hair during heat styling

- stylers to help reduce the effect of humidity on your styles

- stylers for shine etc.

The more uses you can get out of your styler, the better for you.
A basic styler for a newbie is a moisturising alcohol free gel i.e. No alcohol denat., ethanol.

You can then purchase other stylers depending on your styling needs.

5. Oil
Oil is important for natural hair because they help minimise water loss, help strenghten strands and keep them supple/ elastic.

They are also a good vehicle for introducing agents that benefit the scalp and follicles.

 There are two basic types of oils.
Essential oils are like concentrated plant phytochemicals gotten from leaves, flowers etc and thus care must be taken when using them. They are usually diluted in carrier oils i.e. regular oils. e.g. rosemary essential oils, orange peel essential oil etc.
Regular oils which are usually gotten from the seeds, fruits or leaves of oily plants. the common method of getting these oils is by pressing them or by heating them up. e.g. castor oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, shea butter oil etc.

As a newbie, the basic oils to start with are shea butter, coconut, palm kernel, olive, castor oils etc.
You really shouldn't get an essential oil until you have done your research about the purpose and method of use including the risks involved.

So there you have it!
Sulphate free shampoo
Conditioner
Leave In Conditioner
Styler
Oil

The big 5!

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PROTECTIVE STYLING: HOW TO MAKE YOUR GHANA WEAVING, BRAIDS......LAST LONGER!

August 20, 2015, 2:56 am

≫ Next: MY OILING REGIMEN UPDATE FOR HEALTHY HAIR

≪ Previous: FIVE BASIC PRODUCTS FOR NATURAL HAIR

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Hi people, what's been on?

Credit:www.myblackhair.nl

When I tell people I can rock Ghana weaving using Expression Kanekalon Braiding hair instead of easier to blend kinky twist hair, I get asked how I keep it looking smooth.
One major problem with using straight extensions while braiding natural hair is that in a short while, it starts looking fuzzy and rough.

Sitting down for hours to braid my hair is my least favourite thing to do....I literally get 'bumbum burns' so I try as much as possible to make my hair last and stay neat for as long as possible.

How do I do this without the braider picking all my hair including my scalp in an effort to make my hair last and look neater for longer?

1. I stretch my hair.
I do this either by threading, using a blowdryer or by making big braids. When my hair is stretched prior to braiding, it comes out smoother and lasts longer without fuzziness.

2. I do not allow water to touch my hair.
Yes, it's important to moisturise your hair while it is in a protective style but drenching your hair with water is only going to make it frizz up faster. Instead I moisturise my hair with a light lotion which provides my hair with just enough moisture without wetting it enough to cause it to curl up.

3. I increase my moisture routine prior to styling.
While I'm random with my hair styling, I usually have at least a vague idea when I want to style my hair. So I deep condition at any opportunity and try to love up my daily leave in conditioner so by the time my hair is stretched and ready for styling, it's not so dry that I'll have to douse it in water to rehydrate it.

4. I wrap my hair in a scarf.
This is a very old trick I learnt in secondary school and it helps keep my hair looking neat and smooth throughout the two weeks I have my braids, twists or cornrows in and I do so till today. I also protect my hair with a shower cap....a scarf first then a shower cap on top...to protect my hair from humidity.

5. I put my hair up.
 When the weather gets hot and sweaty, the wetness can cause the hair within the braids especially at the ends to shrink up and frizz up. So I try to keep my hair away from my body. It's too hot to let my hair down anyway.

6. I get a trim
If I notice that despite my efforts to make my style last it gets fuzzy, then I know I'm due for a trim and when I get it done, my hair stays smoother for longer.

7. I reduce hand - in -hair.
It's tempting to absentmindedly play with your hair but that only makes it get rough faster.

8. I don't brush my hair.
It only makes things worse. Instead put some hair butter on your hand, pat it into your hair, then tie a scarf around it and take it off just as you are about to leave the house. Problem solved.

So, protective styling ninjas , how do you keep your hair on fleek?

MY OILING REGIMEN UPDATE FOR HEALTHY HAIR

August 31, 2015, 2:32 pm

≫ Next: POWER PUFF COILS

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Hi people, what's been on?

Today I'm going to be sharing an update on the oiling regimen I've been going on and on about. I call it the Indian oiling regimen since I got the idea from the Indian practice of oiling their hair. Read more here.


I've been consistently using this regimen since 2013 and have made changes along the way to better suit kinky curly hair of different textures with the help of feedback from the naturalistas around me.

This regimen is especially useful if you're suffering from unexplained dryness, brittleness, breakage, hair shed and dullness. Where this is excessive, please see your doctor.

During the period of adopting this regimen, it has really helped my hair by
- preventing breakage and improving length (I was able to finally grow my fine hair down to my waist)
- improving elasticity and strength
- improving sheen and softness
- improving moisture retention
- improving styling
and I can watch ZeeWorld without being envious of the beautiful, shiny, long hair of the Indian actors.

THE METHOD

The regimen has three parts,
Shampoo
Condition
Oil


Step 1: Shampoo

The first step is the shampoo step. If you've been oiling your hair everyday till washday, your hair will be protected from hygral fatigue (water causing your hair to expand) with the accumulated oil.

If this is your first time, apply a lot of oil overnight before shampooing (prepoo). You don't need to repeat this step again afterwards.

You can choose any shampoo of choice but it should be pH balanced, moisturising and sulfate free. The original shampoo regimen is a mix of Soapnut, Amla and Shikakai powder. If you don't have the time or ingredients to mix,  a gentle poo works fine.

My washing mantra is shampoo the scalp, condition the hair.

Dilute your shampoo in a bottle or cup with a spout.  It makes it easy to access your scalp and get it clean. It also makes sure whatever shampoo you're using doesn't strip your hair.

You can also wash your hair in braids or twists. Whatever helps you get access to your scalp. You can use this opportunity to give yourself a scalp massage.
Don't worry about your hair strands, they'll be cleansed by the run off while you rinse.

Optional : After rinsing off the shampoo, mix 3 parts water and 1 part apple cider vinegar , then use it to rinse your hair again. This is meant to acidify your hair and close cuticles so your hair feels smoother.  It's also helps with dandruff and itchy scalp.  So if this is you, try this out.
If you experience unexplained shedding, try brewing black/green tea and use it to rinse your hair.
Wait 5-10 mins before proceeding to conditioning.

Step 2: Conditioning
Sometimes I even skip the conditioning step and proceed to the oiling step especially after I've done an ACV rinse. However, conditioning helps provide the slip for detangling and coats the hair with moisturising ingredients.
I actually prefer deep conditioning instead of the usual conditioning for this step. I use the rinse out conditioner to cowash off my deep conditioner instead.

Condition your hair only. Try not to let the conditioners touch your scalp. You want to keep your scalp clear.

Blot off excess water and proceed to the next step.

Step 3: Oiling

After working with different oil mixes, this formulation has been effective in improving the health of my hair and scalp. You can use any oil you notice your hair loves.

Divide your hair into four sections.

Pour a small amount of oil into your palm, rub together to warm and massage into your scalp with your fingertips and the rest along the length of your hair.
If  your hair feels greasy, you have used too much.

This is how much I use for each section.

Do this for each section of your hair and scalp until fully absorbed.

I enjoy bending forward while I massage the oil into my hair and scalp.  Not only is it easier on my arms, it increases blood flow to the scalp.

After oiling your hair, apply a light leave in conditioner and then seal your ends with a moisturising butter.
Then braid or twist your hair till it dries.
This is so your natural hair stretches, the oil is given time to penetrate and you have a fabulous braid or twist out.

Everyday afterwards, apply a little oil to your hair and around your edges. You don't need to repeat all over your scalp unless you are treating any scalp issues.
It fits right into your LOC moisture routine as the Oil step.
By the time your next washday comes, you wouldn't even need to prepoo and with consistency, you'll notice less breakage and shedding, I kid you not!

Here's my wash and go after oiling for 3 days straight. When I'm lazy, I usually skip several days but I had just taken my hair out of a protective style and it was as brittle as kpekere so I had to be serious with oiling for 3 days without fail.

For this wash and go, I followed all three steps then oiled for three days before wetting my dry hair and applying styling product for my wash and go.

Because my hair was happy, I only used very little gel for each of the 8 sections of hair I worked with.

No drips.
No crunch.
No product overload.

Here's another wash and go done on lovely Nelo during the Hair Clinic I organised last weekend. All steps were followed and her 4c hair clumped beautifully! It also works well on relaxed hair (without the curling, of course...hehe).

P.S. Oils are not moisturisers, water is...so while doing this regimen, don't forget to moisturise after with a water based leave in.

Do let me know if you have any questions and don't forget to share your results with the regimen.



Till I spill again,
Live Beautifully.Naturally.
Hadassah A.

POWER PUFF COILS

September 4, 2015, 10:12 am

≫ Next: NO, NATURAL HAIR CARE IS NOT EXPENSIVE

≪ Previous: MY OILING REGIMEN UPDATE FOR HEALTHY HAIR

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Hi people, what's been on? Happy September!!!!!

Rainy season is fully upon us and apart from the constant wetness, I'm loving it. The sun is rarely out these days and my hair is having a blast absorbing all the moisture. For this reason, I've decided to rock  wash n gos back to back.

Top elevation...

 I'm comfortable with leaving my hair out in a wash and go because

1. There is little sun (so my hair won't get fried by the sun's rays)

2. The weather is very wet and humid (so my hair doesn't dry out)

3. The weather is cool (so I'm not uncomfortable)

One thing about wash and go is the shrinkage action! I have long accepted that for my hair to curl up beautifully, it needs to shrink and whatever coils isn't the same length as whatever is straight.

Abradacadabra!!! My hair shrinks four times its true length and that's what makes it magical.

The thing about shrinkage is not only does it make it look like one is stuck at a particular length, it also increases the likelihood of tangles and knots which can be really annoying but it is what it is....just curly hair being curly hair.

These are the products I've been using for my wash and gos

Like I wrote in the previous post, I oil my strands as often as I can. 

I first sprayed my hair with water, added Aussie Moist Miracle Moist Conditioner and finger detangled my hair in four manageable sections.

I shampooed my scalp using Aunt Jackies Oh So Clean sulphate free shampoo. Then I deep conditioned using Carol's Daughter Monoi Repairing Conditioner and a steaming cap for 30 mins.

Then I cowashed it off using Aussie 3 Minute Miracle Moist Conditioner. 

I cowash off my deep conditioners by mixing a small amount of conditioner with water in bowl and using it to rinse off my hair. So I don't really use plain water to rinse off my deep conditioners. 

After this, I blotted off excess water thoroughly, then applied the NappyGirl Growth Enhancing Oil to my scalp and hair as I described in this post.

One of the perks of doing this is a decrease in knots and split ends as the oil lubricates my strands and makes the strands slip against each other. 

I twisted the sections and allowed my hair to dry partially before applying products for the wash and go...it's very obvious I'm not just washing my hair and going!!

Remember I dislike being wet for so long so I figured out a way to get the wash and go look without dripping. Instead of applying products to soaking wet hair, I apply products to damp hair. 

I divided my damp almost dry hair into 8 sections loosely twisted. Then I applied a small amount of gel (Fruit of the Earth Aloe Vera Gel) to each section starting from the ends and fingercombed until my hair began to clump. I then used praying hands to smooth any frizziness, loosely twisted the section and proceeded to the rest.

When I was through with all sections, I carefully undid the loose twists, shook my hair and allowed it air dry. When doing this, don't touch your hair until it dries. This way, you'll avoid any flaking.

Speaking of styling products, did I tell you I went back and repurchased that Jessicurl Spiralicious Styling Gel after swapping it for another product because it dried out my hair?

I had to check it out and I noticed that it contains alcohol (Jessicurl website says it's just a little) but my hair picked it out all the same.

Around the time I got rid of mine, I was gifted some samples by Olori which also included the Jessicurl Spiralicious Styling Gel. (In depth review of the set coming soon).

Apparently, it seems that formula works better on low porosity hair because it worked really well on a friend's hair with low porosity. 

Because of her results, I decided to try it again but this time over Jessicurl Rocking Ringlets Styling Potion which is flaxseed gel based  and didn't feel that brittleness. Perhaps it protected my strands from the alcohol in it. I repeated over oil laden hair and I didn't feel it again.

So, yeah...I think the Spiralicious Styling Gel is one to try if you have low porosity hair. It has good slip, reasonable hold, no crunch and maximum shine. It doesn't flake too and if you have high porosity hair like mine, try layering it over the Jessicurl Rocking Ringlets Styling Potion.

For less drama though, I'll stick to Aphogee Curl Definer.

Here are pictures of my hair during the four weeks plus I've been wearing wash and gos.

Pulled it back for church using Curls Passion Fruit Control Paste. That ish trumps all the edge controls I've used so far. I get more shrinkage once my hair dries so pulling it back is a way to stylishly stretch my hair.

That's my outdoor face. Not every time laugh laugh....

As my hair gets older, it gets better......

MAINTENANCE:

At night, I put on my large satin bonnet. I finally found it in my laundry basket.

In the morning, I'll spray water using a spray bottle to rehydrate and revive the curls, pour a small amount of the growth oil and scrunch in gently especially at the ends.

Once a week or once in two weeks, I'll rinse off all the products with water, cowash my hair (no shampoo till the ending of the month) and repeat the wash and go procedure I described earlier.

This style is actually less time consuming to put in than when I'm preparing my hair for a twist or braid out. Some days I see a fab twistout on Instagram and then laziness won't allow me to start all the twisting procedure....

The wash and go is bae for now....

This is probably one of my longest post but I just wanted to share more details about my current wash and go regimen including products.

What's your regimen this season?

NO, NATURAL HAIR CARE IS NOT EXPENSIVE

September 8, 2015, 11:16 am

≫ Next: THE PROBLEM WITH BLACK SOAP FOR NATURAL HAIR

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Hi people, what's been on?


Today I'll like to discuss something I keep hearing.....

"Hmmm, natural hair is expensive ooo"

"Hmmm, natural hair is not for poor people o".


Wait what?  Did I miss the memo or something?  The last time I checked,

"Natural hair is for when you are broke"

"Lemme give you money to make your hair. This one you've been carrying natural hair"

"Is it because you don't have money to retouch your hair, that's why you're carrying natural hair? "

"Why didn't you fix your hair?  No money abi? "

If I keep on writing everything concerning natural hair and being broke I've heard in my life, this post will be the longest post ever!

So how come all of a sudden, natural hair is expensive and now for the rich?

The first point of argument is the price of natural hair products.
Yes, I agree they don't cost N1 but that's not enough reason to say it's expensive.

Okay.

Let's start with the person who asked me if I didn't have money to fix my hair.

1.  Fixing

These days, it's not fashionable anymore to fix any weave that isn't human hair so bye bye to N800 weaves.
The average cost of a weave that the market man will promise "You can use it ten times and it will still look new" is N5000.
For reasonable volume, I will need two packs of hair. So my total bill on the weave alone is N10,000.
To fix that weave, I'll pay a stylist about N1200 and if I want a fancy place,  N3500. I'll  not include the 1hr I'll spend waiting for my turn and the 3hrs I'll spend having my hair braided and fixed. I'll not include the one day I'll spend with a facelift and pain or the next three weeks I'll spend knocking my head in a bid to scratch my itchy scalp.

Total cost : N11,200

Oh wait, it's worth it because the market man promised me I'll use my weaves 10 times so if I'm calculating cost per use, I'm actually spending only N1000 on the weave for 10 months.
Let's be real, who does that????

Painful thing is I'll still be called broke because I can only afford N5000 weave which I "gasp" used 10 times instead of the N50,000 weave that places me higher on the social status ladder.

My thoughts
I'd rather use that N11,200 to buy a good bottle of sulfate free shampoo, a conditioner and a gel and have my hair in a bun for the next 10 months. I might be energetic and do one or two fancy updos while I'm at it.

Let's assume I'm braiding my hair instead.

2. Braiding

To braid my hair, I will need to buy 2 packs of Expression N800 if I insist I don't want to be swallowed by my hair or 3 packs N1200 if I exercised my neck muscles well enough with yoga headstands.

To have twists installed, I'll pay my stylist N1000 if she's cheap and N3500 if she's not.

I'll be expected to carry my twists for one year (that's what she promised) or one month (that's what's practical for me unless I want to be bald).

I will not include 45mins to cut and feather the extensions or the 6 hrs plus it will take for my butt to take the shape of my seat.
 I will not include the slight pressure I feel when she included my eyebrows as she was trying to pick my baby hair or the nimbleness of my tiny body as I dodge the hot water when she wants to neaten or curl the ends or the painful sigh of resignation when she squeezes my head with a hot towel.Afterall, she's doing me a favor.I don't need to spend my money again in a year on hair!

Total cost per month: N1800 (if I'm stubborn) and N1800 per year if I listened to her.

Oh wait, it doesn't matter if my edges are receeding because the chick's got skills.  She can braid an egg if you let her.

If I remember I'm human not an egg, I'll probably stop braiding when the sea that is my dying edges receeds as far as just behind my ears.

Oh, there's this magic potion that grows edges,  N10,000 . Okay, no problem as long as it grows my edges.

My thoughts
Sorry, I'd rather be expensive and purchase a N1,800 bottle of leave in conditioner to moisturise my hair.

What if I decide I'll be cheaper. I won't fix and I won't braid.

Leaves me with two choices, either have natural hair or have well relaxed hair, abi.

Oya, let me relax my hair and be cheap about it.

3. Relax

I'll buy N100 relaxer and pay a stylist who's very cheap N200 for relaxing my hair. At least I'll only retouch once every month (that's what she adviced)  or once in 3 months because that's how long it will take me to forget my last relaxer burns.

Total cost.  N300 per month (if I listened to my brilliant stylist)  and N100 per month (if I listened to the pain).

I don't need to buy any maintenance products because they have them in the salon.

My hair begins to break and change color. It's not as black and as shiny as the first time I retouched.

Two choices: Either I start buying N1500 kit or I buy her Indian hemp mix for N150.

I take option A.
I buy the kit.

i. Relaxer with kit
I start using the products included in the kit because I'm too cheap to buy larger sizes for maintenance.

My hair improves. I continue with the Kit.
Total cost: N1700.

Later, I notice the thinning and add option B plus steaming.

ii. Relaxer with kit plus steaming and Indian hemp mix

Total cost: N1700 plus N150 plus N200 for steaming equals N2050.

The health of my hair seems to wave in the direction of health,  this month and look unhealthy, next month.

I conclude that long hair is just not in my family or I'm growing old or I've started buying fake kit.

My thoughts
Personally, I'd rather use that N2050 to buy a good deep conditioner and if I were relaxed, I'd invest more in protein and moisture products.

Oh yeah, I observed my friend who was relaxed and now she's natural and her hair looks thick and black.

I decide to cut my hair.

4.  Natural
I'm still cheap remember. I will not spend more than N2000 on my hair but I can't buy a decent sulphate free shampoo and conditioner for N2000. Neither will I spend money on knowledge.
So I buy a sulphate shampoo for N300.
 Shebi it's just to wash hair, abi I roll for gutter???

I will also buy shea butter N50. It's the best 'moisturiser'.  All these people selling leave in conditioners more than N50 are expensive o!
My hair gets dryer and dryer. Stronger and stronger.

I ask my friend. She lists all the things she used to get her hair soft. It's about 5000 different things most of which I can use to cook a pot of soup.
Palm Oil, Okro, Pepper, Spinach water, Banana, mayonnaise, yoghurt,honey.....Chai, this natural hair thing is expensive o!

I spy another friend with healthy texlaxed hair. It's long and thick.

Abeg, shrinkage is rubbish on top of the money. I can't even see if my hair is growing sef.

5. Texlaxing

I decide to texlax like her. I still refuse to invest in my hair. My stylist didn't know what texlaxing was but I explained some more..."Oh, blowout!' she cried.

I settle in the chair. She 'blows out' my hair and then apply plenty petroleum jelly and blow dries my hair. Ah, you see, my hair was even long sef....which kind of natural hair torture...Mtchewww.

It's soft at first and then gets harder and harder. I call my friend . She lists a bunch of products she's using. Everything ends in 'thousand, thousand, thousand' .

Texlaxing is hard and expensive oooooo!!!!

THE END

Let's be real, if you want to have happy healthy hair, relaxed or natural.... You need to invest in knowledge (that one be eating megabytes like PacMan)  and good quality products. (They are not N1).

Like everything in this world, there are people who take things to the extreme and buy things they can't afford. Some people can't afford N550,000 weaves but they'll do anything to buy it. Some people can't afford N20,000 for 1oz of shampoo but they'll still buy it just to belong. Some people buy expensive products they don't know how to use just so they use #productjunkie tag.

It's all about priorities, instead of spending N50k plus buying the best weaves to hide damaged hair, why not invest that money in products and knowledge to treat and prevent damaged hair.

Instead of spending N7500 trying to buy hair growing pills, why not invest that money in a good moisturiser to prevent dryness which is one cause of breakage and poor length retention.

Before purchasing products, place a budget on what you can afford and shop around for the best products at that price.

It's more expensive treating damage than preventing damage. It doesn't matter if you're relaxed or natural. Invest in the best you can afford and save money in the long run.

That's just my N1, anyway. I'm cheap and can't spend more than N1.

So guys, do you think natural hair is expensive?  Weigh in! 

THE PROBLEM WITH BLACK SOAP FOR NATURAL HAIR

September 15, 2015, 5:11 pm

≫ Next: WHAT'S IN MY MAKEUP BAG?

≪ Previous: NO, NATURAL HAIR CARE IS NOT EXPENSIVE

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Hi people, what's been on?

In my last post, I explained why natural hair care is not expensive.

In the bid to make natural hair care as affordable as possible especially for those on a really low budget, there has been a lot of DIY and alternative solutions for different products used in caring for natural hair.

The first one I'd like to discuss is the sulfate free shampoo. We all agree that shampoos ccontaining sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfates, ammonium lauryl sulfates, and ammonium laureth sulfate tend to dry out hair especially Afro textured hair. These ingredients are foaming detergents that do a very good job in getting rid of oil/grease. This is why they are very useful in dishwashing liquids and household cleaning liquids but are way too cleansing for your hair considering your hair actually needs oils to stay supple.


Afro textured hair or type 4 hair is very fragile.
It has fewer cuticle layers and is more porous than other types of hair which makes it difficult to retain moisture and thus gets dry easily.
It's also tightly coiled and prone to breakage especially when handled roughly.

Please note that relaxing your hair to look straight doesn't changed the fact that it's Afro textured hair.It's the same as natural hair just that it has been chemically treated. This makes it even more fragile. To put it in pictures, the fact that you chemically lighten your skin doesn't make you a different race and by chemically lightening your skin, you make it more fragile. So this information is not only for naturalistas.

Using sulfate shampoos on your hair is not recommended because it removes the natural protective lipids that surround your hair and dries it out which worsens an already dry situation.

To prevent this, milder cleansing agents are used in what are called sulfate free shampoos. These alternatives includes
- Coco glucosides
- Lauryl glucosides
- Cocamidopropyl betaine
- Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
- Sodium Cocoamphoacetate


Another alternative is the use of Saponified oil bars also known as soaps/shampoo bars. The most popular being black soap or dudu osun.

While these are gentler and cheaper sulfate free alternatives to the more stripping sulfate shampoos available in the market, I'd like to point out a few cons in using soaps for cleansing so you can make an informed choice.

1. It is not pH balanced.
Remember,  the pH of healthy hair is acidic (pH 4.5-5.5) and for soap to be a soap, it has to be alkaline (pH 8 and above). There's no such thing as acidic soap. Soap is made by reacting a fat/oil with an alkali.If the pH of soap becomes acidic, you'll be left with a gunky oily mess. Unlike soap, it is easier to adjust the pH of shampoos so it's more acidic than alkaline.
Deviations in the natural acidic level of the hair causes it to expand and the cuticles to raise. This can lead to protein loss, moisture loss and damage over time.
This is one of the cons of the long term use of soaps as hair cleansing agents. It can also cause the hair to dry out even more than pH balanced sulfate shampoos would.

To get around this, some soap makers use a process called superfatting. In simple terms it means that even though the soap is alkaline and can dry out the hair, it has more oil so the hair doesn't feel stripped. This is probably why the practice of adding oils into your black soap mixture reduces the drying effect. Another way to counteract the alkalinity of soap is doing a final rinse of dilute apple cider vinegar.

2. It is not safe for colored treated or damaged hair.
If your hair has been permanently colored,  the last thing you'll need to use is an alkaline cleanser. Using an alkaline cleanser i.e. soap  makes your color fade faster.

3. It leaves a dull film especially if you're using hard water
Soap forms scum in hard water. Hard water contains carbonates such as calcium carbonates.When using soap in hard water, it combines with the carbonate to form a precipitate known as soap scum. This ends up in your hair and it begins to look dull and greyish and leave it prone to tangling. Shampoos are formulated not to leave residue.

The advantages of using black soap to shampoo your hair are:

1. It's very affordable.
Dudu Osun costs less than N200 and you can get several washes out of it without breaking the bank.

2. It's widely available
Black soap is not difficult to find. You can get it in northern Nigeria as Sabulun salo, in  the west as Ose Dudu and in the east as Ncha nkota unlike sulfate free shampoos that are only available in select stores around Nigeria

3. It nourishes the scalp as it cleanses
Depending on the formulation, black soap made with plantain bark and shea butter offers protection against UV rays and contains retinyl palmitate (Vit A) and tocopherol acetate (Vitamin E).

As usual, what may work for one person may not work for another. Some people's hair do just fine using soap in lieu of shampoo but if soap doesn't work for you, try out a sulfate free shampoo.

I personally use soap in emergency situations when I run out of shampoo. Long term use of soap wasn't the best for my hair which is actually what made me look deeper into the use of black soap for hair care.

If black soap doesn't work out for you, please do try and get a sulfate free shampoo. If you shampoo once a month and cowash once a week/two weeks like me, a 10oz bottle of shampoo can actually last you as long as 8-9 months without needing to replace especially if your regimen is silicone and mineral oil free.
I actually run through more conditioners than I do shampoos in a year.

Weigh in guys! Black soap or sulfate free shampoos? Which do you prefer?

WHAT'S IN MY MAKEUP BAG?

September 18, 2015, 4:13 pm

≫ Next: HAIR UPDATE: FAUX LOCS AND CROCHET BRAIDS

≪ Previous: THE PROBLEM WITH BLACK SOAP FOR NATURAL HAIR

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" I have heard of your paintings too, well enough. God has given you one face and you make yourselves another. " Hamlet to Ophelia 

Hi people, what's been on?

One day, I decided I had one too many stuff I didn't need in my makeup bag.
Why do I need more than one eyeshadow palette?
 Or why do I need four different lipsticks when all I do is grab one any given day?

 On most days my makeup is very light especially as my skin responds positively to my new routine.

Sometimes just for the fun of it and the fact that it is cheaper to satisfy my shopping blues with a new lipgloss, I  actually buy stuff that find their way slowly but surely to the bottom of my makeup bag.

I'm not the most morningly morning person and no matter how early I get started, I'm the girl you see flying out the door with her fro bouncing behind her. I think I'm addicted to the adrenaline rush.
With this in mind you can imagine the aftermath of my whirlwind movement when I have a lot of makeup stuff in my bag and I have to get ready in 15mins or less.

So I had to sit down one weekend and really sort things out to make it easier for me. My sister helped because left to my own devices, I'd swear I needed everything!

Now I'm done and my makeup bag can zip close and there's space for new things *looks over shoulders*

So what do I have left?

1. Mascara
...MayBelline Great Lash Mascara. One swipe and my lashes lengthen. Two swipes and my lashes thicken. Three swipes and I'm an African goddess.

2. One black gel liner.
Zaron Longwear Gel Eyeliner in Jazz. This is also my second purchase.
I've tried different eyeliners. I've tried pencil eyeliners, pen eyeliners, dip stick eyeliners and my favourite is the gel eyeliner and kajal (the N50 one that never finishes).
These are easy to apply and don't fade off in a pool of facial oil. You need to have a steady hand though because once you make a line, you've made that line....no going back.
I used to use an angled brush to apply the liner but one day, I was looking in my bag for my angled brush, couldn't find it and had to use the nib of an old pen liner ........and I never bothered my fro with angled brush again.
I was recently gifted an L.A Colors liquid eyeliner in dark brown. It's okay ....good staying power but it makes my eyes water when it's too close to my lashes.  I still prefer my gel eyeliner.

3. One blush.
Zaron CZ01 Raspberry. This is my second purchase. My first one broke and I got another. Then it broke again and I had to do the alcohol and powder trick for saving compact powders so everything is mixed up. This blush works more as a lipstain than a blush for me anyway...love the color but too lazy to hunt for exact lipstick shade...
As a blush though, I find it the perfect shade for a subtle blush effect. It never gives me the clowny look.


4. Foundation
L.A. Girl PRO.conceal in Toffee and Beautiful Bronze and Revlon ColorStay in 330 Natural Tan.
Three shades???
 Yes...because my skin color changes with the weather so I have to mix and match to get my perfect shade.
I don't use them as foundations per se, more like concealers. I don't really like foundation all over my face. I've worked with several foundations but these ones have been able to stick without falling into my facial pores or floating on the surface of my oily skin like akara balls especially the Revlon.

5. Mattifying make up base/Shine Control Cream
To prevent the 'akara balls' scenario, I find that a good primer helps the makeup stay put. The problem is finding one which can keep my skin especially my T-zone matte for longer.
 I've tried three: Iman Time Control Primer, Mary Kay Primer and Boots No. 7 Beautifully Matte Primer. My problem with these primers (except the Boots) is they felt oily on my skin and actually did little to keep my skin matte. They did however solve the problem of darkening I get with my makeup, a common problem with oily skin. I learnt it's due to oxidation. Boots was able to keep my skin matte for longer.
Then I discovered Garnier Oil Control Complete Vanishing Cream and I'm a very happy camper. It's so good that sometimes I use it alone without makeup to get the fresh out of the shower look. I'm currently trying Oriflame Pure Skin Shine Control Cream and I like it too.

6. Face contour kit.
This actually doubles as my natural eyeshadow palette. The darker shade is the one I use to contour. I find the highlighter and bronzer too shimmery for my already shiny T zone (natural highlights, abi?) so I use both as eyeshadows.

7. Pressed face powder.
I'm not a fan of the mess associated with loose powders and I don't think any brand can change my mind. I prefer compact powders.
I've used Sleek, Mac, BlackUp, Milani and now Inglot. I love the subtle bronzey effect of the BlackUp and I love how Milani Compact powder gives me coverage without being heavy and it's cheaper too. I didn't like the MAC for my skin. I tried to since it's like the HG of every makeup artist but I couldn't. I recently purchased Inglot AMC powder and to be honest I don't like it that much. I can't wait for it to finish so I could go back to BlackUp or Milani.

8. Lipstick(s) and lipgloss(es)

I bought a matte red lipstick because I love red. I've tried the popular RubyWoo but found it too drying but after trying a sample of Zaron Tonee Red, it has become my staple red.
I wasn't a pink lippie person but my sister introduced me to Milani Rosehip lipstick and I became hooked on that shade.
 I got it a shade darker in Uptown Mauve and then added a nude lipstick by Elizabeth Arden. So red, plum and nude....I think I've gotten my basics covered.

Though to be honest, on rush hour....a stain of my blush and a swipe of lipgloss (Victoria Secret or Maybelline Baby Lips) and I'm good to go.

9. Eyebrow kit...
I really love that once I get my eyebrow game on, my face come alive and being powder, my eyebrows don't dissolve into my personal oil well mid day.

This makes it easier to enhance my eyebrows without sharpening any pencils and getting woodchips and sticky nibs everywhere.

It's also very quick to apply and I love that it can double as an eyeshadow when I want a subtle smokey eye going.

 The dark shade of the eyebrow duo works really well as an undereye liner as it subtly darkens it without being too out there. It also doesn't run or make my eyes water like most regular liners do.

10. Mini samples of face products
You know those little samples that come with the purchase of a perfume or something? I always find them handy in my makeup bag especially for travelling. The Clinique makeup remover helps with removing makeup before I wash. There's also the Atzen Lip and Eye Emulsion for dark spots. I like how it absorbs without hurting my eyes.

11. One Nude Eyeshadow Palette
This one is by Clinique. It's so easy to apply and small enough to fit anywhere. Sometimes I use it with the Milani Eyeshadow Primer but these days that primer works better under my eyes as base for concealers since the eyeshadow goes on smoothly and lasts well on my oily skin. I also got the Naked Palette because I heard it had all the neutral colors for everyday makeup but after thorough questioning by my sister, I realised that on any given day, I just swipe colors from my contour kit or this one. I rarely use color these days except for special occasions.

So that's it.

I'm wearing the Milani lipstick in Uptown Mauve

I'm glad we got round to sorting through my makeup bag and my sister was so firm ....so I only kept what I needed.

So peeps, what's in your makeup bag?

HAIR UPDATE: FAUX LOCS AND CROCHET BRAIDS

September 24, 2015, 3:43 pm

≫ Next: 20 NATURAL HAIR STYLES FOR CHILDREN

≪ Previous: WHAT'S IN MY MAKEUP BAG?

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Hi people, what's been on?
I finally got round to doing the faux locs!
I washed, deep conditioned and oiled my hair. It was well hydrated because I had it in a wash and go for almost two months. I refreshed the wash and gos weekly.



For the faux locs, I used two packs of Janet Noir marley hair (you can substitute with the First Lady brand or Supreme brand of Afro kinky hair) and 2 balls of acrylic wool/yarn for the base.

If it's your first time with fauxlocs, there's one thousand and one YouTube videos explaining the process.

It took me 4 hrs to install the locs. I made random parts because I have fine hair and precise parts can make my hair look scalpy. The other alternative is to make more locs but who's gonna do all that....not me o!!!

MY METHOD

First, I made loose twists without extensions.

Secondly, I cut out yarn and folded it as thick and as long as I wanted my locs to be and attached it by wrapping it around the base of my loose twists. I did not twist my hair with the yarn/wool.

Lastly, I wrapped the kinky hair around it all to make my locs.

Here's my final results.

Then on Sunday, I taught my sister how to do crochet braids. She wanted a fringed style. We used one pack of Expression Kanekalon Braiding hair in color 2. Here's our final look.

To get the fringe to curve gently, I applied a heat protectant serum to the hair then curled with a round bristle brush and blowdryer on low to medium heat. The Kanekalon hair can withstand a small amount of dry heat.

That's the round brush I used.

It turned out quite well. I usually crochet with curly hair or wavy hair. Straight hair isn't something I'd pick as first choice but I liked the final look. I doubt I'll do it myself because straight hair isn't forgiving if you make mistakes when installing plus you can't leave big gaps between strands like you can with curlier hair.

I think my hair will be in the faux locs for 2 weeks at least .... I hope.


More hairtips at the Natural in the City Meetup this Saturday, 26th September at the Social Place, Lagos!

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20 NATURAL HAIR STYLES FOR CHILDREN

October 3, 2015, 12:43 pm

≫ Next: PRODUCT REVIEW: CURLS COCONUT SUBLIME CONDITIONER

≪ Previous: HAIR UPDATE: FAUX LOCS AND CROCHET BRAIDS

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Hi people, what's been on?

Happy New Month!!!!!

I was chatting with someone and she sent me a picture of her little daughter with twists she (the little girl) did herself!  I was so proud of her and the fact that she loves her natural hair. I have a soft spot for children with natural hair and feel sad when I see a little girl's kinks chemically straightened.  I understand that mothers who relax their little girl's hair do this because they absolutely have no idea what to do with the kinks and curls, majority of said mothers being relaxed themselves.

For inspiration showing the beautiful styles you can achieve with kinky curly hair, I scoured Instagram for 20 elaborate natural hairstyles for children!
Enjoy and don't forget to bookmark!!!!

For tips on children's natural hair care, here's
- How to wash and condition your child's natural hair
- Products available in Nigerian stores for natural hair
- Personalised product and regimen kits for your child's natural hair
- How a Nigerian mother grew her daughter's hair waistlength
- How to make natural hair styling sessions painless

PRODUCT REVIEW: CURLS COCONUT SUBLIME CONDITIONER

October 8, 2015, 2:41 am

≫ Next: NATURAL HAIR STYLE GALLERY ON NIGERIAN HAIR

≪ Previous: 20 NATURAL HAIR STYLES FOR CHILDREN

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PRODUCT NAME

Curls Coconut Sublime Conditioner

PRODUCT SIZE

420ml/14.5oz

PRODUCT PROMISE

Super moisturising rinse off conditioner hydrate and soften the driest curl! Great for midweek conditioning rinse also.

INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS
Apply conditioner to wet hair. Detangle with wide tooth comb. Leave on for 1-5 mins. Rinse. Works great as a mid week conditioning rinse- rinse hair, apply Coconut Sublime Conditioner, detangle and rinse.


MY REVIEW
First of all, this product has an awesome banana-coconut smell. I'm one of those naturalistas that doesn't mind smelling like food....not rice and stew kind but the chocolate, vanilla, citrus, icecreamy, fresh baked cupcakes kind of scent!

After reading the wonderful ingredients which consists of apparently harmless ingredients I would mix in my kitchen plus paraben, alcohol, silicone, mineral oil free, I had faith in my heart that this product will be a winner.

It also comes in a unique wine plastic bottle that makes my shower caddy look sophisticated....hehe. It comes in a new design now but the same wine bottle shape.

So, pretty packaging aside, how does this ish work for my fine, thirsty high porosity natural 4b/c colored kinks????

Truth be told as a rinse out conditioner used normally after shampoo, this product does absolutely nothing for my hair. It doesn't have much slip for detangling at all. So it's not my first choice for detangling my hair especially after a long term protective style. You will just weep.


As a suggested mid week cowash tho and as a deep conditioner, it is like its name says....sublime!!! Curls popping and smelling great!

For cowashing, I water rinse under the shower to remove all products, dilute the conditioner a bit, cover with a showercap while doing other shower stuff, do light finger detangling (on hair that isn't very tangled) and rinse off. Blot dry, apply oil, moisturiser (sometimes I can even skip this) and gel (if styling in a wash and go). No buildup or whatever.

See how happy and shiny my curls are? This is my last use. I'll miss this product if I didn't have alternatives...

Unless I'm trying other products, this is what I've been using.

Would I repurchase?
I don't think so....not unless my hair starts freaking out and I need to go back to what worked well for me.

Why?
I've had it for almost a year - 9 months exactly (which is a long time for any conditioner used as a cowash and deep conditioner).
 If you know how happy I am it's empty ehnn! I need to try other products without feeling guilty I have half used products.
The  conditioner is very thick and a little goes a long way. Infact, I think it's better in an inverted bottle (like Aussie Moist Deep Conditioner) or a tube just so it's easier to dispense and I can be lazy with my arm muscles.

Do I recommend it?
Yes I do. I think it'll work well for high porosity naturalistas especially those with color treated hair as a deep conditioning treatment and for cowashing. It can also be a substitute for Carol's Daughter Monoi Repairing Conditioner if you want to save but get good quality.

Where can you get it?
While I got mine outside Nigeria, you can get yours at KinkyApothecary.

NATURAL HAIR STYLE GALLERY ON NIGERIAN HAIR

October 11, 2015, 6:51 am

≫ Next: 5 REASONS YOU SHOULDN'T DYE YOUR NATURAL HAIR

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Roll and Tuck updo

Hi people,  what's been on?

I was going through the pictures on my camera to create space and I saw a lot of protectivestyles I've done on myself and on clients and I thought,  why not share them here?! It might inspire someone!

So here goes!!!

Fauxlocs

Crochetbraids

Fauxlocs

Cinnabun

Twists and cornrows

Wash and go

Hair bow

Cinnabun

Cinnabun

Bantu knot outs

Perm rod sets

Ombre twist and cornrows

Wash and go mohawk

Strawsets and cornrows

Wash and go updo

Roll, pin and tuck

Crochet braids

Rosebush updo on weave

For more styles, follow me on Instagram @nappilynigeriangirl

Which of the styles above would you like me to do a tutorial on???

5 REASONS YOU SHOULDN'T DYE YOUR NATURAL HAIR

October 23, 2015, 4:31 am

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Hi peeps, what's been on??

"To dye or not to dye???"

Just before I finally went ahead and dyed my hair after many donkey years of having basic black natural hair (with some interesting splashes of grey hair here and there), I was faced with the above question.

We've all heard different horror stories when it comes to changing hair color.

"Dyes break your hair"
"Dyes dry out your hair"
"Dyes cause irritations of the scalp"
"Dye never turned out like the color in the box"

.....enough reasons never to look longingly at a box of dye, yeah???


Well I'm not helping matters when I say there's some truth in those stories and I'll give five reasons to NOT dye your hair.

1. DON'T DYE YOUR NATURAL HAIR WHEN YOU'RE BORED WITH IT.

We all get in a styling funk once in a while with our natural hair. Your hair seems to have a mind of its own.
 That permrod set that looked great last month looked horrible yesterday even with the very same products and methods.

You have no idea how to get out of the bun life.
That image you had of rocking different uberhot natural hair styles week after week is now dull and grey.

You're totally bored!

Then a brilliant idea pops up....how about a burst of color to spice things up???

Please don't.

Dyeing your natural hair shouldn't be impulsive. It should be done with purpose and an understanding of the process. Dyeing your hair impulsively can lead to big mistakes such as choosing the wrong color for your skin tone (that's why it didn't look as good on you as it did on that YouTube guru), choosing the wrong formulation for your hairtype and also failure to prep your natural hair sufficiently for the dyeing process.

So please, embrace the bun life!!!

2. DON'T DYE YOUR HAIR WHEN YOUR MOISTURE GAME ISN'T ON POINT

Dyeing increases porosity in the hair strands and this increases dryness. If you're still struggling with maintaining moisture balance in your hair, dyeing it is not the answer.
It will make things worse!!!!
.....and honestly, parched, brittle color treated hair isn't the look you're going for.
So if you're struggling with dryness and breakage and what not, try sorting those out before dyeing your natural hair.

3. DON'T DYE YOUR HAIR IF YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOUR HAIR TYPE IS...

Unless you'll be dyeing your hair with a professional who is supposed to run a proper analysis on your hair, don't dye it if you have no idea what your hair type is.
I'm not talking about type 4a,b,c and z kind of typing. It's just one part of the picture. I'm talking about porosity, thickness, density and length.  These factors play a major role in how well your hair responds to the dyeing process and how light or dark you can go. Which means that even if you want to go blonde and your hairtype doesn't favor the stripping that comes with going blonde, it's a bad idea to go blonde especially if you plan on doing it yourself.

4. DON'T DYE YOUR HAIR IF YOU AREN'T READY TO INVEST IN GOOD QUALITY PRODUCTS

When you dye your hair, you may need to switch up some or all of your hair care products to products that are color safe. These protect the colored hair from fading, dryness and environmental damage. If you're not one who cares about spending money on good quality hair care products, then my advice is don't change the color. You need to use good quality hair dyes to minimize damage and they are not N300. You need to switch to a sulfate free, pH balanced shampoo that's safe for colored hair. You need to invest in a good deep conditioner. You also need to invest in a good salon and stylist.

5. DON'T DYE YOUR HAIR IF YOU ARE A REALLY LAZY NATURAL

I'm not talking about too lazy to do different elaborate natural hairstyles every week. I'm talking about too lazy for washday, to lazy to deep condition, to lazy to patiently detangle, too lazy to moisturise, to lazy to go to a professional. If this is you, please ditch the dyeing idea. Dyed natural hair requires more effort and care than you're willing to sacrifice!


Still interested in switching up your natural hair color???

Go for something less permanent like hair chalk, colored sprays and temporary dyes.

LIKE MY HAIR

October 27, 2015, 12:09 pm

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Like my hair, I'm dark and beautiful
Like my hair, I stand proudly up
Like my hair, I'm indomitable
Like my hair, I'm strong but flexible
Like my hair, I thrive on love and care
Like my hair, I may break and fall but I'll still grow strong
Like my hair, I'm full of life
Like my hair, I am versatile
Like my hair, I am deeply rooted

Everyday I look at my nappy hair, I thank God for who I am.

Each twist and turn of each coil reminds me that each twist and turn in my life has a purpose...to make me the best I naturally should be.

Achieving my hair length goals helps me appreciate the value of goal setting.

Listening to my hair when using products has taught me how to listen and notice how my body reacts to what I put on and in it.

When my hair reverts after a blowout,twistout or flat ironing, it reminds me to go back to my simple roots when life gets out of shape.

Does your hair inspire you? Share!!!

CURL FRIENDLY LEAVE IN CONDITIONER

November 3, 2015, 1:52 am

≫ Next: HOW TO BE LAZY WITH YOUR NATURAL HAIR AND GET AWAY WITH IT!

≪ Previous: LIKE MY HAIR

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Source: here

I know the major problem we face with our Nigerian natural or relaxed hair is dryness!

We all want our hair to be soft, well moisturised with the coils/curls all going 'boing boing boing' in our ears...so I decided to share an effective DIY recipe (just in case you couldn't BIY) for defining your coils while keeping your hair moisturised.
It also useful for detangling dry hair, moisturising edges while hair is in braids, twists or weave extensions.

It also makes a light skin conditioner for dry skin!
Try it out and thank me later! ;)

Ingredients

1 Cup   (250ml) of distilled water
1/4 Cup (62ml) of aloe vera gel
1 tbs coconut oil
1 tsp honey and/or 1/4 tsp vegetable glycerine

Optional
2-3 drops of essential oil of choice.

All measurements are done using standard measuring cups and spoons. These can be gotten in market where baking stuff are sold.

Method
Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake to mix. #shikena !!

Preservation
Store in a cool dry place preferable refridgerated. This should last you 3-5 days after which you should make a fresh batch o!



How to use (can be used on relaxed/texlaxed hair)

- Apply to ends daily to prevent breakage then to hair as often as it feels dry.

- For children, apply to hair before combing then to ends daily.

- On wash day, apply to damp hair before styling.

- For braid or twist extensions, apply to exposed hair line to prevent breakage and hairloss.

- For coil/curl definition, apply to dry or damp hair starting from the ends and working towards the roots. Style as usual.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the comments section! If you have any other hair and skin friendly tips, why not share by sending an email to nappilynigeriangirl@gmail.com with the heading "DIY RECIPES' with your name and/or contact deets and I'll put it up!

HOW TO BE LAZY WITH YOUR NATURAL HAIR AND GET AWAY WITH IT!

November 4, 2015, 8:17 pm

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With the wealth of information and new regimens for natural hair care....it's really easy to fall into the trap of doing too much!
 We can't all be super naturalistas following every kinky rule in the book to the letter, it's down right tedious and boring!
The beauty of natural hair is freedom......

Sometimes, I can't be bothered with my hair.
The good thing about being lazy is that I tend to look for the shortest fastest way to do tedious tasks so I have more time to do other things......like sleep...!

Before I start dishing, let me say something.....

You don't have to do a lenghty pre poo, apply a hair mask, deep conditioner, protein treatment, hot oil treatment, clay wash, co wash, steam, clarify and all those length retention hair care tips you read about in one sitting!

These are supposed to be done on 'need be' basis.

 Take a regimen that solves your particular hair issues and if a regimen works for you....save your time and stick to it.

The reason why natural hair bloggers write about different type of regimens and products is to be able to help address a particular need at that time.
Some regimens help you retain moisture, some help retain length, some are for naturals with long hair, some are for naturals with teeny weeny fros, some are for naturals in temperate regions, some are for naturals in tropical regions......so before you adapt a regimen, try and see if it's designed to suit the needs of your hair at that time.

So, here are my tips on being lazy with your natural hair and getting away with it!

-  What makes co wash appealing to me is that I can skip pre poo, shampoo and if I feel like it styling. Sort of a wash and bun kind of thing.
To make my co wash meaningful, I mix in oils in the last wash and rinse with cold water.

- I cut pre poo and detangling time by coating dry hair with a mix of NappyGirl Growth Enhancing oil, aloe vera and silicone free conditioner such as VO5 Conditioner the night before wash or just use a deep conditioner. 
Cover with shower cap. Double wrap to prevent drippies!
By morning, my hair is soft and easy to detangle.

*another tip to reduce detangling is to reduce the frequency of rocking free hair especially as your hair grows longer.

- I cut wash and further detangling time short by shampooing my hair from scalp to ends in twists/braids using diluted shampoo. Lather and rinse.

- Satin scarf every night ...errr not every night for me! Reduce that hassle by sleeping on satin pillow case.
 Don't have one?
Simply wrap your pillow right round with a big satin scarf.
Easy peasy.

-Don't have time to style?
Simply bun it!
An inverted bun (with the tips tucked in) is not only an ideal protective style but you can just wake up, spritz up, smooth and go!
Rough edges, just slick a wide band/turban and head out!

-Tired of forgetting to moisturise hair everyday?
Me too!
Just shower/bath with your hair out.
The steam in the bathroom is enough to get those parched strands popping.
To seal, just slick palms with oil and wipe on your hair.

-Limit products to basics....basic products that solves the main needs of your hair.
Trying to select a product from your mini beauty salon store is time consuming!
You really just need a shampoo, conditioner, leave in conditioner, gel/styler and oil.
 Any other additions can be found in the kitchen... gelatin for protein, vinegar for clarifying etc...when you have the time!

-Weave it up! Cornrows, box braids, mini twists,yarn braids,wigs and weaves are hairstyles that can last a month. You can clean the scalp biweekly.

-Too tired to wash/clean my hair?
 I just wipe my hair and scalp with baby wipes.

-Don't have the time to L.O.C. everyday??? I just use my one step LOC mix on my kinks.

-Embrace shrinkage...battling with shrinkage is really time consuming!
 What's the point in trying to stretch out my hair for 4hrs only to have it shrink up in a second!
 Abeg joor!
 Let the hair be!
That's why I'm natural in the first place...to embrace my texture so why bother trying to change it?!

- Must rock a twistout?
Well, make smaller twists/braids  and rock that for a week.
Take it out for the next week for an uber defined twist /braidout.
Humidity is your friend. Watch your style change as your hair gets bigger and better everyday.

Rinse and repeat!

What are your lazy natural hair tips?

---

ENUGU MAKEUP FAIR AND THE WEDDING SHOWCASE

November 6, 2015, 11:58 pm

≫ Next: HOW TO GET THE BIGGEST BADDEST NATURAL HAIR BUN.

≪ Previous: HOW TO BE LAZY WITH YOUR NATURAL HAIR AND GET AWAY WITH IT!

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Hi people, what's been on?

Spoiler alert, this post is going to read like a novel so make yourself comfortable and sure your mobile/tablet/PC is fully charged...battery and data wise.



Sometime in September, I was invited to The Enugu MakeUp Fair by my friend, F.
I had no idea.
Maybe because I'm simply obsessed with hair and hair related things and apart from buying one or two random lipsticks and finding the holy grail makeup product that will not slide off my oil slick of a face or irritate my skin, I'm fine with what I'm currently using.

 If only I'm that way with hair products!
It's not like I haven't found my HG products...heck I even make mine!....it's just that I'm always down for trying out something new....lemme blame it on the Aries in me (one of my best pal is into the whole zodiac thing).

So, F called me up on Friday

"Hi girl, what time are you leaving for the Enugu MakeUp Fair?"

I had absolutely no idea and she assumed as a blogger, I'd know about these things...lol
To save face, I was like

"Umm, don't know....what time are you leaving"

and she's like

"I'm leaving around 10 a.m. tomorrow, let's meet at the studio"

and I'm like

"sure"

since I didn't have anything planned except taking down my protective style and catching up on T.V

......and that's how I went.

Fauxlocs and two packs of bobby pins later....

The event was organised by PopConcepts and took place at Ingrace Event Center, Enugu (why do I always start with ingrate!)

Gosh, I've never seen so much makeup in one place!

I was in F's zone...that's for sure!
She's obsessed with makeup...she's a makeup artist
....and she guided me around her world
....NOT!
 F abandoned me to pore over makeup and speak makeup language!!!!

I looked around for cute hair accessories at least since it was a makeup and beauty fair....but unfortunately, hair doesn't count when it comes to beauty since I came up dry.
Sorry, no cute accessories to show you but I did see some naturalistas which made me happy.

Hair on fleek..Makeup on fleek. The bottom pictures influenced my purchase of a truly matte red lipstick. The Zaron I have is matte but not matte matte....

Since I couldn't figure what else I needed for a facebeat as a 'normal person', I decided to go to with my default beauty purchase.....no 'normal person' can ever have enough mascaras, lip paint and nail polishes, right????

Maybe I can finally do all those swatches makeup bloggers do...lipstick swatches, nail polish swatches, mascara swatches, ice cream swatches, palm oil swatches, curl definer swatches.....hmmm

They also had a makeup runway show. The looks would be perfect for Halloween (if we celebrated that in Nigeria) but so glam. I liked the Africa look.

The turnup of makeup and beauty vendors was quite good and I'm sure a lot of people came for free goody bags (me too!)....O.Y.O!!!
Lol!!!
Anyway, I think we should have more of these in the sleepy town that is Enugu. If you know any event going on, please hit me up. I miss Lagos just because there's always something going on....wine tasting, book reading, fashion design workshops etc....(that's the kind I like sha).

Onto the event I looked forward to attending...... 'The Wedding Showcase"!!!!!
I was looking forward to this event because there was going to be a Fashion Runway Show!
I love Fashion Shows!!!
 While channel surfing you'll always find me on FashionTV, E! and CartoonNetwork (I am not ashamed).

One of my favorite part of fashion shows is the bridal and Haute Couture because you get this fantasy, other worldly fashion looks that make you go (at least it makes me go...)

"How the heck did they put that together???"

and shed some awe inspired tears....please don't judge me....I love the display of talent!

The Wedding Showcase was organised by WhiteMagic Media and ElsiesBakehouse. The event which started on the 22nd of October was meant to run for 3 days. The first day being the exhibition of everyone involved in wedding and events planning world (which I missed because it was a weekday), a workshop and finally the fashion show and after party.

I went in for the workshop. This held at Golden Royale Event Center, Enugu.

There was still an exhibition which was a relief because I was looking forward to getting a lot of contacts for my big days (traditional wedding and white) and if you've ever planned or helped plan a wedding, you already know how hard it is to get hold of the right people to make your dream wedding come true.

Your dress has to be on point, your makeup on point, you have to get the right crew for media (or else have crappy photos) and your location and decor should be on point.

Oh no!!! I may actually be a bridezilla...I rebuke!!!

Luckily, I was able to connect with an event planner who was on the same wavelength as me (even threw some extras tips to my ideas) and understood that the point of being an event planner wasn't just to have a cake making stand and some random decor and tell me they couldn't find the right colors for me or show me what they did for others...it is to make MY vision come true!

Seriously we need to have these events every year!!!!



Traditional wedding cake by Elsies BakeHouse Enugu. It tastes as good as it looks....not just pretty for nothing.

Then the workshop....there was a makeup workshop and a natural hair workshop which I wouldn't miss for nothing and I'm glad I didn't.

At the makeup workshop, I learnt how to get matte lipstick on fleek.
I have full lips and contrary to what a lot of people say, matte lipstick makes my lips look parched (and no my kissers are never dry, parched or peeling....I love to L.O.C. them).

I was already regretting my impulse purchase of the matte vampy red Ferrarucci FLC32 lip stain but was saved by this simple tip for getting the perfect Matte pout thanks to Diva Makeovers.

You make an 'x' on your cupid bow using a matte lipliner (not black o..just using it to demonstrate). Then draw around the sides and bottom lip (outside your natural line if your kissers are thin, just inside if your kissers are pillowy like mine). Then join the dotted line and color within the box like we did in nursery school. If you were the type that colored outside the box (jagajaga coloring), then forget this...lol! Be safe and use a colorless lip balm.

Here's my final look

 Long post but we're learning, yeah?!


Okay keep reading.....

The natural hair workshop was next and was presented by Chianugor and Tandy.....hehe...nope not me!
 I was determined to enjoy the show.
I learnt a lot plus their hair!
 Can't wait to dig in.

We have something coming for peeps in Enugu so subscribe (subscription box on the right) so you don't miss out o!!! *spoiler: How does free hair makeover sound?*

Exhausted, I finally dragged myself home for the next event, the fashion show and afterparty.

The fashion show took place at De Dome, Enugu.
It was a fun event...so fun that I was able to stay seated from 9pm to past 12 midnight and still had the energy to party at Platinum Lounge in Enugu.

I've been known to disgrace my friends by sleeping at events and clubs (dreams attached) but I was wide awake for this one...so it's something.

Uti was there, Beverly Osu was there and a host of other celebrities (that unfortunately, my lack of interest in AfricaMagic didn't allow me to identify).
 I wished Kay came with me.
 It's so bad....please if you were at the event and you're a blogger, link me up so readers can get a real load down.

I won't lie....I only went to the fashion show because I was assured that Mai Atafo will be there and the event planners saved the best (IMO) for the last because I was eagerly waiting to see what he had for wedding dresses.

I wasn't familiar with the other names but OUCH stood out.
 He designs suits for men and believe me, I was tripping.
I'm always attracted to a man in well tailored suit .
Not the baggy type, not the too tight type, not the one with the long sleeves that can't show the cuffs but perfectly tailored suits.

He also had a perfect singing voice and I knew he must be a really talented person. Creative people always have other talents (painting, singing etc) besides what they are actually famous for.
He had THE voice (no filters attached).

Finally we moved to the lounge for the party  where I was a shameless groupie (is that the right description) for Mai Atafo.

Now I can actually understand when peeps disturb celebrities for photos and what not.
I'm the type of person that tries not to intrude for photos and autographs because I feel for the celebrities....seriously.

 I know how hard it is to smile when you don't want to or shake hands with people you don't know (a large family does that to you...plenty relatives you need to know, who knows you but you don't and you smile and hug anyway) and I know how after a long day of singing and dancing, celebrities really want to tuck in and sleep.....I think....perhaps I'm just antisocial.....or in better terms, a selective extrovert....I believe in personal space.

But....sorry Mai!

Luckily for me, my cousin was one of the organisers so I was able to groupie shamelessly back to drop Mai off at his place. It was that bad.
He was funny though (like really funny...not the "stupidly have to laugh because I'm obsessed" kind of funny) and when he agreed with my stance that wedding dresses can be black or blue, what can I say?



My new boo!

So, that's how it went.

P.S. I wasn't ready to move around in heels to take pictures....really missed Kay...she loves taking pictures....so had most of the event in videos...bad blogger abi? Will upload as soon as internet is stable'.

Finally because you managed to keep reading to the end (I wouldn't have stayed on unless I love the blog so much), I'll share the details of the wedding team I actually like out of all the vendors at the exhibition.
If you have any traditional wedding, white wedding or other events to be planned in Eastern Nigeria, hook them up.

To treat yourself to a spa to relieve the stress of the big day, you can do so at Recline Beauty and Health spa. Tel: 08039210201
Most 'spas' here in the east is....there's no way to put it kindly. This has good feedback. I'll be going soon so again, subscribe so you don't miss my review.

To capture your moment and look fab (something about these photographers always catching the wrong pics and they are so rude!), you can get in touch with Big Deal Photo Studio Enugu. Tel: 08038095172 IG: @bigdealstudio

To take the stress out of event planning and have it go YOUR way (and with someone who actually knows the difference between sky blue and baby blue), you can get in touch with Zilcom Services Ltd. Tel: 08033291240

For unique bridal accessories, H-Zibah designs have you covered. Tel: 07031685170

For cakes that taste as good as they look (not the one with buttery taste or filled with too much currant to make up for lack of talent) you can contact ElsiesBakeHouse Enugu. Tel: 08127227684

For makeup (that doesn't make you look fake, unless that's the look you like), it will always be Sleek Beauty 08088816053 IG: @sleekbeautyshop_awka


For natural hair bridal hair, get in touch with me by email nappilynigeriangirl@gmail.com

You can also contact me if there's any puzzle missing in the Team of making your wedding dreams come true! I'll be happy to furnish details of no nonsense peeps.


Mini rant: Service delivery here in the east is so awful!

 Imagine DHL personnel telling me that the package I paid to be delivered to my home would not be delivered and I had come over to the office to pick it up?! In his own words "If you're waiting for me to deliver it to your place, you go wait tire!?"
I had to place an angry call to headquaters for the idiot delivery man to bring my goods....one week overdue!!!!

Need I talk about Konga.com? They actually deliver on time from Lagos but once it reaches their office in Onitsha, eastern nonsense takes over. The delivery agent is so lazy as to actually return goods and report them as 'delivery attempt failed".
I have lost two packages that way.

I have no problem sending stuff to Lagos or Abuja but once it is in the Eastern zone, Aba, Owerri, Onitsha, Awka, Nnewi it is nonsense and ingredients and very stressful!!!
The same companies I trust their services in Lagos or Abuja gives crappy service once it is in the eastern zone.

I can understand why people are reluctant to bring businesses down eastern Nigeria. Service delivery game really needs to step up.

Please if you have a company based in Eastern Nigeria, try and pay attention to enforce the discipline and quality service you take pride in.

HOW TO GET THE BIGGEST BADDEST NATURAL HAIR BUN.

November 9, 2015, 6:54 am

≫ Next: REVIEW WITH HADASSAH GIVEAWAY 3!!!

≪ Previous: ENUGU MAKEUP FAIR AND THE WEDDING SHOWCASE

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Hi people, what's been on?

Today I will share my trademark bun.

I confess that anytime you see me with this bun, I was just plain lazy....but it still looks like I did a lot ....so .....hehehe!
 Maintenance is so easy. All I do is dab the hair with my LOC mix, smooth and go.
I can rock this for weeks if you let me...lol!

Best part is it doesn't stress my hair at all.

 It's so easy to do and all you'll need is
- Medium length natural hair
- Two elastic hair bands
- 5 mins of your time.

You can make it as big or as small as you want to depending on the placement of the end band. It's a cool protective style because it keeps your ends hidden.
If you want it to be very huge, do it on blowdried hair or hair stretched out with twists, braids or bands.

Here's a pictorial for what I and my sisters call 'The Cheat Bun'.


Tip: Keep your edges smooth by using a gel and tying on a silk scarf.
        You can also pin down the edges of the bun using bobby pins to hide the elastic band.
For more variations of 'The Bun' , peep them on Instagram @nappilynigeriangirl

What's your go to lazy girl style?

REVIEW WITH HADASSAH GIVEAWAY 3!!!

November 11, 2015, 3:05 am

≫ Next: NOBU'S DIY DEEP CONDITIONING TREATMENT

≪ Previous: HOW TO GET THE BIGGEST BADDEST NATURAL HAIR BUN.

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Hi people!

#ReviewwithHadassah is back again!

If you loved Cantu Shea Butter Leave in Conditioning Repair Cream, you'll definitely love Cantu Shea Butter Moisturising Twist and Lock Gel!

Wanna try it out with me????

Then head on over to Instagram and do the following,

- Follow @nappilynigeriangirl
- Repost the picture on your page
- Tag 3 or more friends
- Use the hashtag #ReviewwithHadassah


Hurry! You stand a chance to win full size tubs of Cantu Shea Butter Leave in Conditioning Repair Cream (because I know how much you love it) and Cantu Shea Butter Moisturizing Twist and Lock Gel (because I know how much you want to try it!)

Giveaway closes midnight on 15th November 2015.

This Giveaway is open to Nigerian residents only. (If you reside outside Nigeria, you can have your prize sent to the Nigerian address you provide)


Live Beautifully. Naturally.
Hadassah Agbaps

NOBU'S DIY DEEP CONDITIONING TREATMENT

November 15, 2015, 10:15 am

≫ Next: HOW TO GO NATURAL - THE BIG CHOP

≪ Previous: REVIEW WITH HADASSAH GIVEAWAY 3!!!

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Hello!

 My name is Nobu Ikachana. I'm from Zambia.

 I recently went natural and I would like to share what I have been using for my deep conditioning treatment. It is great for giving hair a beautiful shine and for hydrating your curls.

Ingredients

-Mayo
-two eggs
-honey
-cinnamon
-a little milk

Directions

Mix all of the ingredients together and heat a little bit (in a microwave or in a bowl of hot water), then apply to hair for as long as you like. My recommendation is 30min.

Warning!!
 It can be a little messy but it is worth it :)

Thank you, Nobu for sharing your secret mix. 
P.S. Start with two tablespoon of each and 1 tsp of cinnamon and adjust depending on length and thickness of your hair. If you think your hair is protein sensitive, reduce the number of eggs in the mix.

Have a recipe, updo, favorite tip you'd like to share, send to nappilynigeriangirl@gmail.com

HOW TO GO NATURAL - THE BIG CHOP

November 21, 2015, 2:56 am

≫ Next: HOW TO GO NATURAL: THE TRANSITIONER

≪ Previous: NOBU'S DIY DEEP CONDITIONING TREATMENT

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It's a big step to go from silky straight chemically relaxed hair to a full head of bouncy coils.
I have tried to highlight in a previous post the basic tools you may need as a new natural.
There are two ways of going back to your coily roots.
You may opt for the big chop or  transitioning gradually to your natural hair.
I will outline the two ways stating the pros, cons and tips you can use to make things beautiful.


                                  BIG CHOP
When I hear the "big chop", the image I have in my mind is foreboding. I see my head on a wooden block and an axe falling down.
The thought of going natural in this way can be terrifying.

It's no mean feat to let go of those long silky locks and channel "Amber Rose" and cut off all your hair.
Many questions jostle for attention in your mind...well it did in mine: )
"what will I look like?""Will I still look feminine? "
"I don't have the right shape of head"
"I'm not tall, I'll look smaller " etc.

Granted, it's not easy and a big kudos to those that transitioned this way.
I'll admit that the big chop and the resulting teeny weeny Afro may cause you to feel exposed, naked and vulnerable but sometimes it's the best way to go natural.

1. Pros
-The big chop gives you an opportunity to gradually get used to caring for kinky hair as it grows.

-You will not be burdened with managing two different hair textures and the resultant breakage as the hair is the weakest at the junction between the curly natural hair and the straight relaxed ends.

-Hair is much stronger and healthier with little or no splits, single stranded knots and such.

-Low maintenance.

- It's a real confidence booster. Rock this and you can rock any hairstyle! Grab a pair of hot damn earrings and va va voom makeup if you wanna and "hellooo world!".

2. Cons
- No more ponytails and hair flowing down your back ( that is before it grows out again anyways)

- You may easily begin to feel the heat of the sun and cold fingers of winter as they drum a beat on your now exposed pate.... forgive me for the dramatics but....he he he)

- You run the risk of some people thinking you are crazy and some ignorant "she male" remarks...they usually come from those with extremely low self esteem.

3. Caring and Styling

When cutting your hair, make sure you use hair shears (though I used new paper scissors when I cut mine due to damage from bad hair habits ).
Hair shears reduce the likelihood of splits.

Caring and styling your teeny weeny Afro is easy.

All you have to do is shampoo or cowash with a curl friendly conditioner, moisturise with curl enhancing moisturizer and seal in with a natural oil of your choice.
As it grows, you can deep condition once in two weeks.

Recommended brands available in Nigeria  include,
*VO5,
*Dove,
*Motions 
*Suave Naturals,
*Aussie Moist
*Tresseme Naturals,
*Herbal Essence Hello Hydration. Shampoo and conditioners.

I love Texture My way Curl Keeper by Africa's Best as a moisturizer. 
It keeps hair moisturised for up to two days. You may not need to apply again on day two. Simply spritzing the TWA with water revives curls.
I really recommend you try this if available in your area.

As your TWA grows and reaches that awkward in between length, beautiful styles to attempt are:
-Wash and gos

-Fingercoils and sponge curls

-Cornrows and flat twists

-Box braids and kinky twists ( take down is a breeze. Just snip the hair where your short hair ends and loosen. It takes longer time with longer hair for obvious reasons)

- properly installed weaves.

- "pick and drop braided styles"

- Dyed hair...TWA is stronger than longer hair and thus respond better to hair dyes. However, caution must be taken as with all other chemical treatments. That's why I put it at the bottom. A natural alternative is the use of henna.

Have you big chopped?
 Did I miss anything?
 Do you have any questions? Feel free to add!

Live beautifully!
Hadassah.